“The Streets”

As I was walking through my new neighborhood in Ankara I turned on my voice memos and got something down that I've splashed together with some field images and put up on Medium. Hoping for an audio file to follow. Enjoy!   https://medium.com/@tesswaggoner/the-streets-3402fb379d2d   

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“The Resistance”

  "Oppression greets us from all angles. Oppression wails from the soldiers radio and floats through tear gas clouds in the air. Oppression explodes with every sound bomb and sinks deeper into the heart of the mother who has lost her son. But resistance is nestled in the cracks in the wall, resistance flows from … Continue reading “The Resistance”

Sitting on a Balcony / Refractions / You Can’t Go Home Again

I’ve been writing this for a long time. I remember sitting and sobbing on my balcony in Southwest So scared Sure, I was excited Today I’d call it heycanli But fear of the unknown Of non comprehension Of safety Clouded my eyes “What am I going to do?” I implored to sometimes roommate, sometimes guru, … Continue reading Sitting on a Balcony / Refractions / You Can’t Go Home Again

Come As You Are: Mevlana Seb-I Arus 2013

The week leading up to December 17 is known in Konya, Turkey as the Mevlana Festival, in celebration of the ‘urs of Celaladdin Rumi. ‘Urs is an Arabic word which can be translated as “wedding day;” in this context it refers to the death anniversary of a Sufi saint, or revered Islamic mystical figure. The … Continue reading Come As You Are: Mevlana Seb-I Arus 2013

Black, White, and Pistachios All Over: A Weekend in Gaziantep

Over the Thanksgiving weekend I visited some friends in Gaziantep, a city in southeastern Turkey whose population currently includes approximately 1 million Syrian refugees. Though the cities formal name is Gaziantep, the "Gazi" prefix was added to honor veterans of the War of Independence (establishing the Turkish Republic) in 1928. It is one of the … Continue reading Black, White, and Pistachios All Over: A Weekend in Gaziantep

Bambaşka Biri

I'll get back to posting stories and photos from my travels this winter soon, I promise! I've been having some issues trying to figure out cost-effective video sharing on WordPress, and so I'll be launching a new YouTube channel that's specifically devoted to videos from my travels across the region. In the meantime, I wanted … Continue reading Bambaşka Biri

Do Ebru

While visiting the caravanserai of Silahatar Mustafa Paşa Hanı in Battalgazi, Malatya, I was privy to an intimate and impromptu demonstration of the classical Turkish art form known as ebru (sometimes known as water painting or marbling). The oldest determinable ebru works date from the early to mid-1500s; traditionally ebru was used as the media … Continue reading Do Ebru

Artwork, Adıyaman, Antiochus, and Apricots

Over the first weekend in October, my K-Town crew and I boarded a plane from Ankara and flew to Malatya, a city in Central Southeastern Turkey where 3 of our Fulbright cohorts are placed. The trip also served as something of a one month reunion, as we joined over 20 other Fulbrighters there. With the … Continue reading Artwork, Adıyaman, Antiochus, and Apricots